A Guide to One of the Most Exciting Cities in the World
Hong Kong is hands-down one of my favorite cities in the world. No question. It is so unique and has so much diversity in the varying cultures, cuisines, sights, and things to do. I feel like I say this often, but Hong Kong really has a little bit of everything.
First of all, I think Hong Kong (a territory) has the best food scene of any city in the world. Skeptics might say New York, Paris or San Francisco, but I really think Hong Kong is the best. Dining is one of the main attractions, and understandably so. To start, it has 74 Michelin starred restaurants within about a two square mile area. You literally could stay in Hong Kong for a month and eat somewhere new for lunch and dinner every single day and still not get through all the Michelin star restaurants that it has to offer. What I found probably most impressive was that you can eat three star French food or American fusion gastronomy in Hong Kong that’s as good—if not better—than in their native locations. And if you’re a wine snob, most of these restaurants boast wine lists that literally have everything your heart desires. And scotch selections to boot too. Some of my favorites include VEA (Central), Amber (Central, located in The Landmark, Mandarin Oriental), Caprice (Central, located in the Four Season), 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana (Central, located in the Alexandra House) and Riu Gin (Kowloon, located in the International Commerce Center building). Another favorite is Tim Ho Wan (with locations in Central and Kowloon side), which is known for being the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. My business partner and I had and incredible lunch there for less than $20.
What’s even crazier is that there are thousands of incredible non-fine dining establishments that also offer amazing food for an unbeatable price. You can find literally any type of cuisine you want—whether it’s German, Indian, Nepalese, Thai, South American, or African that you desire—all probably within walking distance or a short subway ride away from wherever you are in the city.
There's also a ton of different things to do in Hong Kong. You can visit beautiful beaches, see ancient temples, and peruse incredible collections of art at one of their many museums. If you're a history buff, there are plenty of museums that show how British colonialism has impacted Hong Kong and shaped it into the city it is today. If you're into gambling, you can bet on the ponies at Happy Valley Racecourse or take a short ferry or flight over to Macau--the Vegas of Asia (they even have a Venetian that is identical to the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas. See photos here). There's even a Disneyland on Lantau Island, and they have lockers on-site so you can stop and spend a day there if you have a long layover. Hong Kong also has a bustling nightlife, ranging from British-style pubs to swanky dark cocktail lounges.
Where to Stay
For foodies, if one of the main reasons you are coming to Hong Kong is for the food, I would recommend staying in Central. Though Kowloon side also has incredible restaurants and several of the best Michelin Star restaurants, most notable restaurants are in Central, close to all the shopping and the hotels. Plus, almost every one of the higher end hotels boasts a Michelin star restaurant under their roof—the Landmark Mandarin Oriental has 10, the Peninsula has 7, the Four Seasons has 8, and the Ritz Carlton has 10. There are so many amazing restaurants everywhere you look.
If it's high-end shopping you're interested in, Central is also your best bet. There seems to be a mall on every block, and high-end shops right in the heart of Central near all the major hotels. However, if you're looking for a bargain or that unique one-of-a-kind find, Kowloon is the place to be. For more on shopping, see "Shopping" below. For business travelers, staying Kowloon side near the ICC (International Commerce Center) is a good bet.
The Peninsula Hotel is Hong Kong’s most iconic hotel, with the richest history. Whether it’s their signature hunter green Rolls Royces that remain parked out front by the fountains or their exquisitely luxurious Afternoon Tea, the Peninsula exudes nonstop charm, elegance and refinement. Not only do you have high end shops like Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Cartier, and Van Cleef and Arpels right there in your hotel, but the property boasts 7 incredible restaurants, a state of the art fitness center and indoor pool, and an award winning spa. And the rooms—oh, the rooms! They really pay extreme attention to every little detail. The rooms are spacious and bright, with high ceilings, marble bathrooms, and just about every amenity you could image.
Taken directly from the Peninsula's website: "The stunningly renovated new rooms showcase bespoke luxury, detailed craftsmanship and a timeless, classically modern aesthetic that blends the distinctive design touches and practicality present in today’s luxury yachts, motorcars and private jets." It's true. This is the place where those who fly in on their private jets would stay, as every luxury is provided and every detail was thought of. I stayed in the lowest tiered room--the Deluxe Room--and it was nicer than the suites at most really great hotels. My room had 20 foot ceilings and was just a shade under 500 square feet. There's an entryway with a spacious closet, a desk, large king-sized bed, sitting area and gigantic bathroom. The bathroom has head to toe marble and of course has the obligatory phone in the toilet and it's own touch-screen on the wall to control the lights and temperature. There's of course a fully stocked minibar, complimentary coffee and tea (complete with an ornate oriental tea set and Bernardaud cups and saucers--God, I love that china!) and a bowl of fresh fruit, restocked each morning.
The whole place is completely tricked out with all the gadgets too. Everything is controlled by touch-screen tablets, the food and spa menus are located on an iPad, and the entire room is wired so that you can hook up your own music from your phone or your computer. Everything has been provided so you don't really have to bring anything; functional objects such as multiple, dual-voltage electrical power sockets with universal adaptors and chargers have been flawlessly concealed with touch-of-a-button access. Your room also has a valet box, laundry bag, shoe shining service, and includes 24-hour room service.
With that said though, staying at the Peninsula does come at a price. Rooms range between about $500 and $2,000 a night (depending on the season and room type), so even though it’s worth the money, if you’re needing to stay a long time in Hong Kong and can’t necessarily afford the splurge, I suggest staying a couple nights at least at the Peninsula and then staying somewhere else after. Don’t go to the Peninsula first though—you will not want to leave!
If you want to stay Kowloon side, the Ritz is where it’s at. Though it’s not necessarily right there amid all the action (it’s located in the quieter business district—perfect for meetings), it’s still just a short cab ride away from the busier part of Kowloon or a very quick ride on the subway to Central. The rooms are spacious and pretty much exactly what you would expect from a Ritz Carlton property. Almost every room has a stunning view of Victoria Harbor and the Hong Kong skyline. The hotel has 10--that's right, TEN--restaurants and lounges on property, including Ozone (famously known for being the highest bar in the world, according to the Ritz), Tosca (an Italian restaurant with a Michelin Star) and Almas Caviar Bar, an exclusive caviar bar with seating for only 7 guests.
The JW Marriott is my favorite reasonably priced hotel in Hong Kong. I tend to try to choose hotels under the Marriott umbrella because I am a gold member and usually get a complimentary upgrade, but I also like Marriott hotels because you are guaranteed to find the typical luxuries of home even when in another country. There is a consistency with Marriott hotels that I love, and you can always count on the service and the amenities being up to the same standards. This hotel in particular is really wonderful. It’s centrally located, has all the amenities you could need (pool, gym, conference rooms, business center, and several restaurants) and the staff is top notch. The main restaurant serves an incredible array of food for their buffet breakfast and Flint Grill & Bar boasts amazing American style dining and award-winning craft cocktails. And the rooms are comfortable, spacious enough, and either face the harbor or the mountain; though I have seen the harbor facing rooms, I have always gotten a hillside view room and absolutely love it—it’s tranquil waking up to a sea of green outside your window. I love it.
Where to Eat
Our dinner at VEA was one of the most exquisite dining experiences of my life. It absolutely blows my mind that this restaurant only has one star. It's just as good--if not better--than all of the three star Michelin restaurants I have eaten at. Perhaps it's because they are new and still establishing some street cred, but either way, be sure to take advantage of the lower menu price and easily attainable reservation while you can, because it's sure to change once this place gets three stars--which I am sure it will.
We had a 10 course meal that was more like 20. The tasting menu started with three different small bite "snacks", then transitioned into a Shima Aji course, short neck clam course, and a plate of roasted sea cucumber. Then came their Taiyouran Egg--a sous vide egg yolk covered in truffle, parmesan and caviar (gasp!)--which was one of my clear favorites. Then we had a course of yellow chicken, varying langoustine plates, an Australian Wagyu beef course, and then three dessert courses, which again felt more like five or six than just three. One included a more savory dessert plate of sweet corn, black sugar and coconut, served up on a piece of wood in the shape of rustic corn on the cob.
What's also great about this place is in addition to your traditional wine pairing, they offer a cocktail pairing as well. I have to say, I definitely like this new cocktail pairing fad! (And I hope it's not just a fad and is here to stay...). The cocktail pairing included seven incredibly delicate, interesting cocktails that paired perfectly with each dish. The cocktails started with 'Shiso", a drink with yuzu and sake, which are refreshing and light. One particular cocktail was served up in a champagne flute and had flower petals delicately placed so that they were cascading down the side of the glass. The presentation was incredible.
One thing I was worried about with a cocktail course was that I would be shit-faced by the time I was halfway through dinner, but it ended up not being an issue. The cocktails are on the weaker side, which I think is nice for a pairing that is meant to help you enjoy the experience and not just to get drunk.
I also can't say enough about the service. Not only were the waiters incredibly knowledgeable, but also so very attentive. If you dropped your napkin, a new one would appear within seconds. If you weren't able to finish your plate, they asked if anything was wrong and would offer to make something else (though nothing was ever wrong--it was just so much food toward the end). If you wanted an additional glass of one of the wines that you liked, they would pour it free of charge. Apparently they noticed that my dining partner was tired, because one waitress even came by and gave him a pillow--that's the kind of attention I am talking about. Nothing goes unnoticed. It was pretty amusing actually. And the sommelier, of course, really knew his wines and could explain the tasting notes and backstory of each and every wine that was poured.
Caprice is your typical white linen, French fine-dining establishment. Good food, great service and an incredible wine selection. We opted to have lunch there, enjoying a couple bottles of champagne, some caviar, and their chef's selection of French cheeses. Everything was wonderful, and I would imagine that their tasting menu has got to be quite good. They do have a dress code though--even for lunch--so gentlemen must be prepared to wear a dinner jacket and no guests can wear sandals, shorts or athletic-like clothing.
Chesa is like stepping into a Swiss chalet atop the mountain in St. Moritz. Tucked away inside the Peninsula Hotel, most guests of the hotel have no idea that just a floor above the lobby is a small, intimate restaurant that is so authentic that you actually feel as though you have been transported to the Alps. Its signature dishes include the fondue moitie’-moitie’, a Gryuere and Vacherin Fribourgeois cheese fondue served with bread, handmade sausages, sliced veal “Zurichoise” and a tremendous selection of air dried meats and cheeses.
Amber is another really incredible two-star Michelin restaurant. It's ranked the second best restaurant in Asia and No. 24 in the world by World's 50 Best Restaurants, beating well-known establishments like the French Laundry,
Saison, Atelier Crenn and Per Se. Though it only has two stars, Amber is one of my top five favorite restaurants. Though I can't think of any one dish or specific thing that sets them apart, the dining experience I had at Amber was truly one of the best. The precision, attention to detail, and impeccable flavor combinations of each dish lead to a perfect tasting menu where there literally wasn't a single dish that I didn't like. This place is a must-visit.
Tim Ho Wan is famously known for being the cheapest Michelin Star restaurant in the world. You can get a lunch for two with plenty of food for less than $20. It serves up all the traditional dim sum dishes like pork buns, chicken feat, shrimp shu mai, pork dumplings. Their pork buns and shrimp noodle rolls (Har Cheung) are incredible. Do plan to wait in line though—they don’t take reservations and there is almost always a permanent line outside of like 20-50 people. Thankfully, it’s worth the wait. Do note that there are several locations—the one in Central is in the subway station, and there are two on Kowloon side. If you want the original, you'll have to head over to Kowloon to Mong Kok. They went from having one Kong Kong hole in the wall to now having a total of 39 restaurants in 9 different countries.
Cocotte has been a favorite of mine since first coming to Hong Kong a few years ago. We stumbled upon it sort of accidentally--I had heard of it by seeing photos on Instagram, so I recognized the name when we walked by it, but had no plans of going there on a particular day and just happened to walk by it after strolling through Central and doing some boutique shopping. It's a cute, quaint little French restaurant with a small, but enticing menu. We started with some salads and then asked the chef to select a number of cheeses to do a large cheese plate. We paired it with a crisp rosé and it made for a perfect (yet a little gluttonous) lunch. We have gone back each time we have visited Hong Kong and plan to keep going in the future.